Varanasi Saree Production A Dying Art

In this article, an established handloom weaver speaks about the decline of the traditional art, due to the increase of mechanized saree production. A traditional handloom saree takes 7 to 10 days to weave, and an additional 7 to 10 days for embroidery. On a machine, the entire process takes less than 10 hours. However, the price includes the lost of work for traditional handloom weavers, traditional hand embroiderers. Some traditional Indian arts are not even made in India - they have moved to factories in China.

Dying Handloom Industry in Azamgarh
India Mirror
by Salman Sultan

Varanasi: Mr. Imam Ali s/o Mr. Muzammil Husain originally belongs to Mohalla Pura Diwan of Mubarakpur (District Azamgarh). He migrated to Varanasi in November 2000 after prolonged sectarian violence in Mubarakpur. He is involved in manufacturing Banarasi Silk Sarees and has continued this business in Varanasi.

According to him “traditional embroidered Saree on an average takes 7-10 days. The same Saree could be stitched on Computer Embroidery Machine in 4 hours but it compromises quality. Actually the Saree is knitted on Powerloom in 5 hours but on Handloom the plain cloth Saree with design takes 7-10 days. Earlier Handloom industry was only in Mubarakpur but now Silk cloth is available from Surat (Gujrat) and with Computerized Embroidery Machine Saree can be made anywhere in India.

Another reason for decline of Handloom industry is the import of China Silk. Earlier Bangalore Silk was made available which is quite costly as compared to China Silk. Handloom industry is only in Mubarakpur and the so called Banarasi Sarees are actually hand made in Mubarakpur or the suburbs of Varanasi. Mau, which was earlier in Azamgarh district, had Powerloom from the beginning. Therefore, cloth industry in Mau in not affected, rather it has flourished at the cost of Handloom industry of Mubarakpur”.

Mr. Hasan Ali s/o Mr. Abdul Mannan, Malti Bagh, Madanpura, Varanasi, lamented, “Around 50,000 workers involved in Handloom industry have migrated for petty jobs elsewhere. Earlier Zari work used to be done through Silver-Copper wire but now it has been replaced with Plastic Zari. Lohta, Kotwa and Mangalpur (all suburbs of Varanasi) are places where weavers used to weave intricate patterns to produce traditional Banarasi Saree but all Handlooms there are lying idle. Those still working on Handloom are just hand to mouth as labour charges have been reduced”.

Both these businessmen associated with Handloom industry blamed the government for neglecting this important industry, which not only provided employment to thousands but was also part of our culture. They suggested government help in the form of subsidy and training in Computer handling to their youths.