Showing posts with label sustainable design. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sustainable design. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 7, 2015

The Folkloric Scarf

















At Indigo Handloom, we work with techniques that are not possible in a modern mill. One of these techniques, called ‘matka,’ is used to create our “Folklore” scarf, which is a favorite of ours this season.


Matka silk is made by using parts of the silk that would normally be considered as waste. Conventional silk is made from the long, middle section of a silk strand, while matka utilizes the first and last few meters of the strand. The beginning and end of the silk strand are not used in conventional silk because they are too delicate to withstand machine weaving, however, because handloom weaving is much gentler on fiber, we are able to use these normally discarded bits of silk to create gorgeous matka silks.


Another wonderful property of matka silk is that its fibers are hand spun. The hand spinning process, combined with a substance called seracin, give matka silks their unique texture. Seracin is secreted by the moth as it spins its cocoon, lending strength and an off-white color to the silk fiber. Conventional silk fibers are washed before being woven, getting rid of the seracin and producing a more shiny, uniform fabric. Though matka silk does not have that silky sheen, it is much stronger because of the seracin.


In addition to strength, seracin provides visual and physical irregularity to matka silk. We absolutely love the soft, nubby texture of matka silk. That same texture gives our silk a distinctive weight that translates to a gorgeous drape on the body. Our “Folklore” scarf in ivory is left undyed so that you can see the beauty in the matka fabric. The color, the drape and the feel of our scarf all work together to create something that is truly luxurious.


Our “Folklore” scarf is finished with a beautiful, hand embroidered border as well as a mandala in the center. The embroidery technique we use is called ‘kantha,’ which is a very simple yet beloved technique. Kantha refers to a simple, straight stitch which is used all over the world.


In India, kantha has a special history. It was often used to stitch together old pieces of fabric or saris in the interest of repurposing these prized materials in new ways. Kantha is often called the grandmother stitch as it was used while women would sit together making quilts for their families.


The combined beauty of kantha embroidery on matka silk is unmatched in conventional fashions or any of our past collections. The weight of the matka fabric is complemented by the heavy edging of kantha stitching, creating a beautiful and luxurious drape. The “Folklore” scarf is a true expression of these ancient techniques at their best.


Luckily, we are offering this scarf along with some of our other hand woven products at discounted prices on our Kickstarter campaign! While this scarf would normally cost you $169 through Anthropologie, or $150 through our website, you can get it for the next 15 days for just $125 as a reward for supporting us on Kickstarter. For your donation you will receive all of the rich culture behind our “Folklore” scarf as well as the satisfaction of supporting that culture and the future of handloom in India.


Monday, September 14, 2009

Untitled 11:11- NY Fashion Week 2009


In this photo, Untitled 11:11 models are wearing handloom silk batik, handloom tassar silk with woolen inserts and handloom cotton with metallic 'zari' thread. Photo from Racked.com: Frank Gargione

One of the design teams we work with at Indigo Handloom is a young label called 'Untitled 11:11." One of the things we like about "Untitled" is their willingness to experiment with new fabrics. Many times, they create their own fabrics by mixing in new elements to our standard fabrics.

For their Spring 2010 collection, they created eight new unique fabrics by customizing the colors of the weft yarns. They then mixed all the fabrics together - sometimes within the same garment.


Their collection was inspired by the French Mediterranean Coast and was presented September 12th, 2009 at "Axelle Gallery" in the Chelsea neighborhood in New York City.

There was a great turnout including critics from: WWD (Women's Wear Daily) and Style.com. WWD described the Spring 2010 collections as "sexy skirts and bustiers with gorgeous details like cascades of chevron pleats and geometric panels."

A "Vogue Magazine" stylist labeled Untitled 11:11 designers, Laurel Anderson and David Peck, "the next big thing." The designs were both retro and fresh, but most impressive of all was their choice of fabrics. The design team were praised not only for the style and sensibility of their collection but also for the socially conscious nature of the handloom fabric used.